Petite histoire de la Cuvée Millerandage
Le Pinot de la cuvée Millerandage est un pinot issu d'une sélection massale de pinot noir connu sous le nom de "sélection Valdiseo". Le millerandage de ce pipnot n'est pas dû à un incident climatique (comme c'est habituellement le cas).
Depuis que j'ai commencé à faire des vins au Chili, en 2002, j'ai vraiment été attiré depuis le début par la vallée de Biobio : je pensais que cette région au climat froid devrait vraiment bien convenir à des cépages comme le pinot noir et le chardonnay qui doivent mûrir lentement pour exprimer toute leur complexité.
VC Family Estate avait déjà des vignobles à Biobio plantés de pinot noir et de chardonnay près du petit village de Negrete, dans une région appelée Santa Ana. Les sols à Santa Ana sont alluvionnaires. Ils peuvent produire de très bons vins fruités mais vous ne pourrez jamais en sortir une grande expression du terroir parce qu'ils ne sont pas assez complexes en termes de minéralité.
Nous avons donc décidé de planter les coteaux de Miraflores tout proches qui ont des sols volcaniques présentant beaucoup de diversité en termes de complexité minérale. Un type de sol avec sa géologie propre, unique, qui peut s'exprimer facilement dans un cépage comme le pinot noir.
En attendant que ce nouveau vignoble produise, j'observais les plantations de Santa Ana pour voir comment les différents "clones de Dijon" (principalement des 115 et 777) se comportaient par rapport aux selections nationales chiliennes.
A la même époque, nous avons commencé à produire des vins sous la marque "Veranda": nous avons acheté des chardonnays et des pinots noirs à Casablanca (dans la région de Valparaiso) pour les vinifier. Ces raisins achetés étaient justement issus de "clones de Dijon" 115 et 777 et de 2 variétés de selections chiliennes.
Ces sélections chiliennes sont de vieilles sélections massales qui ont été introduites au Chili il y a environ 60 ans dans le but, à l'époque, de faire des vins pétillants.
Ces 2 sélections doivent leur nom au producteur qui les a introduites: une est connu comme la sélection "Concha y Toro" et l'autre s'appelle la "Valdivieso". Au début, je les prenais un peu de haut, pensant que les clones bourguignons plus récents seraient supérieurs. En plus, les viticulteurs chililens eux-mêmes n'apprécaient pas beaucoup ces sélections et ils ne les vendangeaient pas systématiquement.
C'est particulièrement vrai pour la Valdivieso qui avait vraiment mauvaise réputation à cause de sa tendance à produire des raisins millerandés chaque année, quelque soit le climat de l'année. Le phénomène était probablement dû à un facteur génétique qui provoque une mauvaise floraison produisant ces malheureux petits fruits. Mais on pouvait voir ça autrement: comme une façon d'obtenir de petites baies d'une concentration exceptionnelle...
En 2003, quand j'ai visité le domaine de Casablanca où nous avons acheté nos raisins, j'ai remarqué ces vignes de Valdivieso aux beaux fruits millerandés (aussi appelé en anglais "head and chicken" que l'on pourrait traduire par "tête de poulet"!). Le propriétaire voulait les arracher.
Pourtant, quand j'ai goûté ces fruits, j'ai tout de suite noté leur concentration étonnante, leur structure avec un grand potentiel, du velouté dans les tannins.
J'ai demandé à mon équipe de vinifier toutes ces grappes à part. J'avais pour objectif de faire un grand vin et je voulais convaincre le propriétaire de ne pas se débarrasser de ces vignes.
Nous avons fait 3 tonneaux de ce vin cette année-là: la première Cuvée Millerandage. Le vin était concentré, d'un bel équilibre entre puissance et finesse. Un russe vint le goûter et acheta toute la cuvée. L'année suivante, le propriéaire à qui nous avions acheté les raisins arracha ces vignes de Valdivieso pour planter des clones plus productifs. Quelle tristesse !
Je pensais alors que cette Cuvée de pinot noir Millerandage serait un simple essai, l'aventure d'une seuls année et qui avait profiter à un seul gars, ce russe, mais nous avions tout de même eu la joie de la créer...
Quelques années plus tard, nous avons acheté des vignobles à Quinel dans la régions de Biobio. En les inspectant avec le chef de culture, nous avons constaté qu'il y avait tout un secteur, avec un beau sol complexe, qui était planté ça et là de Valdivieso. J'en ai dansé de joie ! Et j'ai donné comme consigne que ces vignes soient vendangées à part.
Voici comment la nouvelle Cuvée Millerandage est née en 2007. Nous en avons fait 10 tonneaux. Nous ne l'avons pas encore dit à notre ami russe, comme ça plus de gens peuvent en profiter.
Nous avons créé un petit programme de reproduction de ces vignes. Cela nous a permis d'avoir aujourd'hui tout un secteur planté de cette seule sélection Vadivieso : nous en avons davantage, et c'est plus facile pour l'entretenir et la vendanger.
La bonne nouvelle, c'est que la nouvelle Cuvée Millerandage pousse sur un bien meilleur terroir et sous un climat plus approprié à Biobio. Ne le dites pas au Russe...
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